Pattern Grading is the process of making different sizes of sewing patterns from your base size pattern.
Usually, this process is done by using a strict formula to change each measurement point following a size specification sheet and a size chart, that way the news patterns maintain the same fit and proportions to fit different body types.
For example, if you made a size S sample and now that the sample it’s approved you need to make the other sizes SS, M, L and XL. You will grade the M sample to the others sizes using a formula to be able to sell your clothes in different sizes.
There are a few methods for grading a model, the three main ones are: Pattern Shifting, Cut and Spread and Computer Grading.
In this post we are going to grade a S size Women’s Pocket Shirt, using the Pattern Shifting method, as its rules serve both the manual and the Computer Grading method, in case you are using any program.
Each of the points highlighted in the image below are the base pattern points that will be changed to create the M size sewing pattern points.
To grade a size up or down, just follow the rule measurements formula in your shirt pattern:
Points that have two rule measurements must have the two measurements added on a perpendicular line.
After marking all the next size pattern points, start connecting the points and redrawing with your fashion rulers at similar positions to the size base. So, the size M pattern will start to take shape.
If the measurements of your L pattern don’t fit your size chart, start testing changes to the measurement rules where you find better.
Some brands have measurement rules that vary from size to size, making their patterns more customized to their customers’ body types. Here, we are going to use the same rules for all the sizes to keep it simple.
Just continue this process from the points you found to make the other pattern sizes, either one size up or one size down.
You can apply different colors to make the pattern look more intuitive. When you finish pattern grading, your sewing pattern will look like this:
Now you have your patterns ready to start selling with size variation.
All Uppattern patterns are already fully graded and come with a size chart. Take a look at our pattern styles. Start a free 14-days trial and get access to two patterns ready for you to print and start sewing.